WHILE the ongoing COVID-19 (coronavirus disease 2019) pandemic keeps travel off of most people’s plates, Hong Kong is reminding potential visitors why it should be on their menu once travel restrictions ease up and tourism starts.
Hong Kong is considered one of the culinary capitals of the world. From simple local delights at cha chaan teng (local cafes), to classic Cantonese dishes at dai pai dongs (street stalls), to sophisticated wine dinners at Michelin-starred restaurants, Hong Kong has it all. And this is an aspect that future travelers are being reminded about through Hong Kong Chefs’ Playbook, a new series featuring Michelin star chefs and their love affair with Hong Kong. The series is now available for streaming, with the first two episodes, Yau Ma Tei with Vicky Lau and Wong Tai Sin with Shane Osborn now available at Discover Hong Kong’s website, Hong Kong Chefs’ Playbook | Hong Kong Tourism Board (discoverhongkong.com)
The city’s reputation as a gastronomic destination was cemented in 2009, when the Michelin Guide debuted in the city, bestowing 31 stars on 22 top restaurants.
“The Michelin Guide championed Hong Kong’s culinary scene by highlighting the high standards of Cantonese cuisine. In 2009, the guide recognized Lung King Heen with three Michelin stars, it was the first and only Chinese restaurant in the world at the time to receive such recognition, which helped to put Cantonese cuisine on the map,” said Nicolas Achard, Managing Director of Michelin Food & Beverage Asia.
Today, Lung King Heen still holds three Michelin stars, making it the Chinese restaurant with the longest three-star winning streak in 12 consecutive years.
The Michelin Guide has not only shone a spotlight on Hong Kong’s culinary excellence and boosted the Hong Kong F&B (food and beverage) scene, but also inspired many aspiring young chefs to seize the opportunity to experiment with ingredients and innovate new cooking techniques in the kitchen.
One of these chefs is Vicky Cheng.
Hong Kong-born Mr. Cheng, who trained in the culinary management program at George Brown College in Toronto, returned to Hong Kong in 2011. He set up VEA in 2016 and won a Michelin star in its first year of operations. Barely 36 years old at the time, Mr. Cheng created waves with his fusion concept of “Frenchifying Chinese food.”
Young chefs are also encouraged to be more creative, as evidenced by Vicky Lau of Tate Dining Room who is the only female chef in Asia to be awarded two Michelin stars in the 2021 edition. Using Hong Kong as a source of inspiration, Ms. Lau has created “Ode to” menus, in which she focuses on ingredients essential to Chinese cuisine. These include explorations of tea, tofu, and soy sauce.
Hong Kong-born chefs like Ms. Lau and Mr. Cheng who are trained in French cooking techniques are keen to pay homage to their roots by experimenting with local ingredients and food products and creating an East meets West taste with their dishes. This can be as simple as the humble egg waffle with scoops of ice cream and chocolate sauce, to steamed buns filled with creamy salted egg custard filing, to Mr. Cheng’s roasted sea cucumber on a bed of tiger prawn sauce.
But there is more to Hong Kong than Cantonese cuisine.
As an example, look at 8 ½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA, which is the first and only Italian restaurant outside Italy to be awarded three Michelin stars. Head Chef Umberto Bombana, who has lived in Hong Kong for almost three decades, loves the energy, convenience and cosmopolitan feel of Hong Kong.
Another notable restaurant would be New Punjab Club, which has elevated Punjabi dishes to new heights. With menu items like tandoori venison washed down with mango lassi, it is also the world’s first Pakistani restaurant with a Michelin star.
Hong Kong’s vibrant dining scene has also attracted many international chefs to set up shop in the city. One of them is chef Shane Osborn who came to Hong Kong in 2012 and opened St. Betty before setting up his own place, Arcane, two years later. In 2018 it was recognized with its first star.
“Hong Kong is a truly international city with a dynamic food culture. People like to explore and try new things, and are very open-minded when it comes to restaurants. You can get every type of cuisine in Hong Kong and for a restaurant or chef, that’s a very exciting place to be,” said Mr. Osborn.
The chef recently formed The Arcane Collective, expanding his portfolio of restaurants from one-star Arcane to Cornerstone and now Moxie, featuring vegetarian and seafood dishes, at The Landmark.
Hong Kong also boasts of one of the most affordable Michelin-starred restaurants. Located in the working-class neighborhood of Sham Shui Po, Tim Ho Wan is affordable and has held on to its Michelin Star accolade for 10 consecutive years.
Hong Kong is one of a few cities where its street food is recognized by the Michelin Guide. The Jordan and Yau Ma Tei districts have several street shops that are included in the guide. For noodle lovers, Mak Man Kee Noodle Shop is over six decades old, still serving springy egg noodles with generously sized tiger prawn wantons. Meanwhile, Kai Kai Desserts is known for its traditional Cantonese desserts like freshly ground black sesame soup, almond soup, and glutinous rice dumplings filled with black sesame paste.
In the 2020 edition of the Michelin Guide, the Green Star was introduced to recognize restaurants that “embody and embrace sustainability in their day-to-day operations.” In Hong Kong, Roganic was bestowed with this honor. Led by top British chef Simon Rogan, whose team uses every part of an ingredient to minimize food waste, the restaurant grows its own herbs and microgreens, and uses dry aging and curing techniques to extend the shelf life of food products.
With the growing F&B scene, chefs are championing food sustainability methods, with many choosing to source for locally produced ingredients like yellow chicken, organic vegetables and herbs. The focus on sustainability has made local and overseas diners more aware of Hong Kong’s quietly flourishing agricultural sector.
In 2009 Hong Kong was awarded 31 stars for 22 restaurants. Today, it boasts 95 stars for 69 restaurants. Who knows which new restaurants are included in the 2022 edition of the Michelin Guide.